Now, on the labels of the clothes we buy, we look for information on the manufacturing conditions, in addition to washing instructions and the place of manufacture. Some “ Clean Fashion ” labels indicate their belonging to a committed and eco-conscious fashion. To discover.
These labels meet four different criteria:
- Environmental and ecological: to signify the protection of the environment, from water pollution to the requirement for recycling of materials .
- Social: to protect workers throughout the textile production value chain. Particular emphasis is placed on fair trade, health and workers’ rights.
- Restriction of harmful substances: to indicate the harmfulness of substances used in the manufacture of textiles.
- Animal respect: to protect certain species coveted for their skin or fur.
GOTS: organic textiles
Created in 2002, it is an international label that applies to organic textiles. It is managed and issued by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).
This certification guarantees the organic status of the textile fibres used, and ensures that from the production of raw materials to the finished article, the processes involved are socially responsible and environmentally friendly. This standard covers all stages: processing, packaging, labelling, export, import and distribution of products based on natural fibres.
Level 1 or “organic” requires textiles to be made from more than 95% certified organic fibers and less than 5% from man-made or synthetic fibers.
Level 2 or “made from organic fibers” requires that these textiles be made from more than 70% certified organic fibers and less than 30% non-organic fibers with a maximum of 10% synthetic fibers.
In addition, many chemicals are banned for weaving, dyeing, bleaching, printing and for certain processing methods. The minimization of discharges and waste must be respected as well as the rules of the ILO (International Labour Organization).
Oeko-Tex: textiles without harmful substances
Created in 1992 by two research institutes in Austria and Germany, Oeko-Tex is not an ecological certification, but a guarantee of safety for health and environmental protection. It concerns both raw products and semi-finished and finished products. This certification also takes into account the different stages of processing of the product, but also the materials used in its manufacture.
This Oeko-Tex label, which checks each stage of production of a textile product, ensures that it does not contain chemicals harmful to health.
Azo dyes, formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol, cadmium, nickel, products listed in the ECHA-SVHC (European Chemical Agency, Substance of Very High Concern) and products classified as dangerous to health due to their persistent, bio-accumulative and toxic nature (PBT) are prohibited.
Fair Wear Foundation: defending textile workers
Created in 1999, the Fair Wear Foundation is an independent organization founded by the Clean Clothes Campaign, trade unions, NGOs and two business federations (manufacturers and distributors). This independent foundation works in collaboration with member companies to improve and ensure decent working conditions. This collaboration is embodied in the Fair Wear Foundation Labor Code, based on 8 standard practices supported and inspired by the conventions of the ILO (International Labor Organization) and the International Declaration of Human Rights:
- No forced labor,
- Prohibition of discrimination (race, colour, sex, trade union membership, nationality, social origin, disability),
- Ban on child labor (minimum 15 years),
- Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining,
- Obligation to pay a decent wage,
- Controlled working hours (Working hours must comply with applicable laws and industry standards; maximum 48 hours per week with at least one day off per 7-day period),
- Safe and hygienic working environment
- Legally declared employment relationship
PETA: Protect Animals
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals is an international non-profit organization that protects the rights and dignity of animals. PETA certification certifies that its products do not contain any animal material and that no animals have been used as guinea pigs.
Fairtrade: ensuring fair pay
Created in 1988 under the name "Max Havelaar", this label aims to ensure fair trade in economically emerging countries. Internationally recognized, it applies to food, cosmetic and textile products. Now called Fairtrade, this label guarantees cooperatives of small producers a fair and stable price for their products, as well as more sustainable commercial relations. The Fairtrade label ensures that employees are paid fairly, that there is no child labor, no discrimination and that social standards are respected. It also encourages them to practice environmental approaches and more particularly, towards agriculture that is if not organic, at least sustainable (GMOs are prohibited, but pesticides are still authorized).
Global Recycled Standard (GRS): supporting a circular economy
Created in 2008, the Global Recycled Standard label ensures that textile companies use at least 50% recycled materials in the manufacture of their new products. It also ensures that the product has not used toxic or carcinogenic substances, and that the company behind the product complies with ILO standards.
Origine France Garantie: between localism and protectionism
Established by ProFrance in 2010, this label aims to promote French industrial and artisanal know-how, raise awareness of companies producing in the region, and develop or even bring back production sectors to the country.
All stages of production must be carried out in France (cutting, assembly, finishing) and at least 50% of production costs allocated to French territory alone, in order to boost the employment pool in rural areas and raise customer awareness.
The label provides for three categories of products:
- Industrial products: they must be prepared, processed and packaged in France.
- Natural products: they must be extracted, harvested and cultivated in France (or for farm animals: born, raised and slaughtered in France).
- Processed natural products: same criteria as for industrial products with an additional clause: the main ingredients (weight greater than 8% in the total recipe, name written in the sales name and the commercial name of the product) are of French origin.
Please note: Origine France Garantie is a label, certified by an independent body and granted for a limited period to a company that is audited annually. Made In France is not a label, but a self-declared statement. The product takes its origin from the country where it underwent its last major transformation. This statement in no way guarantees that all the production stages took place in France.
There are a plethora of labels, not to mention the self-proclamations by certain manufacturers, or the greenwashing of certain fast fashion players who do not hesitate to create a capsule collection or finance an organization to display beautiful "conscious" advertising campaigns!
Please note that today no label is able to certify that a garment, said to come from Clean Fashion, is 100% eco-responsible.
