Clean, slow, vegan, blue, green, zero waste , natural or even organic... The "new generation" clean beauty seems very promising, but we still need to understand what is hidden behind each of the versions of this Clean Beauty that wants us well.
Between products that smell divine but are full of plastic, and those that do less harm to the planet but not necessarily good for the skin, it's not easy to find your way around. Deciphering all the names to make the right choices for yourself.
Clean beauty
The term clean beauty , or "clean beauty" in French, brings together all the aspects that come into play in the design of the product. It must be virtuous, that is to say ethical and respectful of nature on the manufacturing side, but also of the consumer on the formula side. Each aspect of its life cycle is important: the sourcing of ingredients, the manufacturing of the formula, the eco-design of the packaging and its degradability, the respect of the men and women employed in the manufacturing of the product, as well as the harmlessness of the formula on nature and for the skin, therefore devoid of non-biodegradable or potentially harmful ingredients. No need for a label (there is none at the moment), the product "just" has to be clean and virtuous. Which turns out to be quite complex. It is not easy to find "perfectly clean" products, but faced with growing consumer demand, many brands are working to achieve this perfection.
Natural beauty
Here are two words to be wary of. Indeed, we talk about natural beauty when it comes to organic products (since they are truly natural) but also to formulas without any precise qualification. Between "natural ingredients" or "ingredients of natural origin" or even "natural formula" ... How to understand? A natural ingredient is an ingredient that comes from nature (and not from chemistry): water, minerals, plants. But the latter can be treated to extract an active ingredient. They are then transformed, physically or chemically, and are then nicknamed "of natural origin". The transformation process is not necessarily harmful. For example, maceration, extraction, grinding or fermentation preserve the benefits of the natural ingredient. A formula can therefore both contain natural ingredients, of natural origin and claim it, up to 95% as is often the case. But the same formula can also contain controversial ingredients. Just like the formula of a product can be chemical, but with some organic ingredients that will be highlighted. Looking at the composition of the product is essential in this case.
Organic beauty
Easier to define, organic cosmetics are standardized by charters and labels. To benefit from an organic label, the composition of the product must meet specifications that indicate the proportion of organic, natural or naturally-derived ingredients (which differ depending on the label) and which ensure compliance with ethical and eco-responsible values. The products are controlled by accredited organizations to verify their compliance. A long list of so-called "controversial" ingredients are banned from the formulas, which guarantees uniformity within the same label, even if the products are from different brands. For example, PEGs (PolyEthylene Glycol), petroleum derivatives that are poorly biodegradable, obtained by a polluting process and irritating to the skin, are banned. This avoids damage to the planet and to humans. However, organic products can pose problems, particularly when they contain essential oils (risk of photosensitization or allergies). Furthermore, the preservatives allowed in organic beauty products may be less effective and thus limit the shelf life of the formulas. In addition to the formula, the packaging of organic products is not always clean. Finally, organic products produced on a very large scale for supermarkets may have ecological flaws, given the quantities of active ingredients required for manufacturing.
Zero Waste Beauty
Here, what we evaluate is the packaging. This is generally eco-designed upstream, and biodegradable downstream so that the consumer does not create any waste. Cardboard and paper packaging, vegetable inks, aluminum and glass pots, reusable or refillable boxes... The first material to be ousted from the equation is the nasty plastic! Fortunately, because its manufacture is extremely polluting and, in addition, it is not infinitely recyclable. Another advantage of zero waste beauty : some products are designed to be durable and not disposable, so as not to become waste like cotton buds or makeup remover pads. All benefit for the planet, this commitment generally goes hand in hand with clean formulas and ecological beauty gestures such as the use of products in their solid version (toothpaste tablets, soap, shampoo), or multi-use products. Another version of this trend aims to offer refillable packaging (instead of disposable). In some cases, they are made of plastic. Their first production is then deplored, even if a lot of bottles are subsequently saved.
Slow beauty and slow cosmetics
Slow beauty , a special name, is a social trend that consists of ritualizing our skincare routines, lightening them and accepting advancing age with kindness. It is both a trend and the name of the slow cosmetics association that gave birth to it, but also the mention it gives to certain brands to recognize their efforts in their social and environmental commitment. These are generally brands that work to offer simple, ecological products that respect people and nature, in a non-standardized way. Finally, slow cosmetics is a way of living your beauty less artificially, at all levels, by choosing products that do us good, without harming the planet.
Vegan beauty
Today, many ingredients used in conventional cosmetics are still of animal origin. A so-called "vegan" cosmetic is a beauty product that follows the principle of veganism: no ingredients of animal origin are used in its manufacture, and it is not tested on animals. The most commonly incriminated components are glycerin from animal fat, honey from bees, milk, squalane extracted from shark liver, lanolin from sheep's wool (authorized in organic by the way) or collagen from slaughterhouse pig carcasses. The origin, which of course does not appear in the INCI list of ingredients, is difficult to identify. These ingredients mostly have plant-based alternatives, but which are often more expensive. So, when nothing is specified, we can unfortunately think of the animal option. Beware of some misleading names: "Castor oïl" for example has nothing to do with beavers, but indicates castor vegetable oil in French! Note: carmine, a red pigment from crushed cochineals, used in most lipsticks, is still difficult to replace. Brands that launch into vegan beauty can use a dozen labels like that of PETA or the Vegan Society. On the other hand, the formula can be as chemical as desired or produce polluting ways, because the labels do not take these criteria into account.
Cruelty free
This designation only refers to the absence of animal testing. However, since 2013, a law has prohibited the sale of cosmetics tested on animals in Europe, with the exception of imported products. A law that was extended to all European markets in 2016. Thus, writing "not tested on animals" on a cosmetic is misleading since it is not a commitment on the part of the brand, but simply compliance with the law.
On the other hand, some ingredients that are not (or not only) cosmetic may have been tested on animals and end up in a formula. Today, no label can 100% guarantee that no ingredient has been tested on animals. Furthermore, the formula may contain ingredients of animal origin without having been tested on animals itself... The cruelty free label can be misleading.
Furthermore, conversely, a brand that wanted to market its cosmetics in China was obliged to test its formulas on animals! An international brand could therefore be "cruelty free" in Europe, but not in China. Now, in 2021, China is waiving this obligation in favor of a certificate from the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and an assessment concerning manufacturing.
Green beauty or green cosmetics
These are imprecise names that are used to characterize a global trend rather than a specific category of products. They are used to determine the different families of natural or ecological products. Green beauty, which mainly refers to the brand's image, allows marketing departments to position the latter on the chessboard of the global cosmetics market. Behind "green beauty" we hear naturalness of course, but also transparency, values and a commitment from the brand, but there is no label. And so it can mean anything, including greenwashing. At what point would a brand be green? Because it has eco-refills, even if they are made of plastic? Because a few ingredients are organic in the middle of a petrochemical formula? We could say that a brand is green as soon as it takes ecological action, which is very commendable, but does not reflect its commitments in terms of the formula or pollution.
Blue beauty
The latest trend, blue beauty could be the next big wave to hit the cosmetics industry. It is the evolution of clean beauty towards an active position of ecology through cosmetics. Blue beauty will not only be clean, safe, non-toxic and eco-friendly from A to Z with a low carbon footprint, it will also have to participate in preserving nature, including the oceans, with a view to giving back to water what water brings us that is precious. To become blue, cosmetics are getting closer to everything aquatic, from the ingredients to the actions and decisions that contribute to safeguarding the health of the planet, in particular the seabed with the reduction of waste (reduced and reusable and/or biodegradable packaging) and formulas that are safe for marine species. Combating marine pollution in formulas and packs involves the hunt for plastic (picking up waste on beaches, for example), developing formulas based on farmed microalgae, designing biodegradable plant-based packaging, and a project for a circular local economy that promotes know-how in complete transparency... With such a program, blue beauty has a bright future ahead of it.
When we see the profusion of names and trends that claim to be part of the sustainable, responsible and ethical movement, the alliance between beauty and ecology is obvious and unavoidable. We hope that this desire for transparency, honesty, safety and virtuous practices on the part of the cosmetics industry inspires other industries!
