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KERATO-REDUCING TREATMENT

KERATO-REDUCING TREATMENT

100ml

HYDRA-REGENERATING CREAM

HYDRA-REGENERATING CREAM

50ml

METAMORPHOSIS BALM

METAMORPHOSIS BALM

125ml

SKIN RENEWAL SERUM

SKIN RENEWAL SERUM

30ml

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The dictionary of skintellectuals from L to Z

Disco skin II - WE ARE CLEAN - CLEAN BEAUTY

INCI list

The INCI list , short for "International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients", must, since 1998 in Europe, appear on the product itself or its cardboard overpack. The ingredients are listed in descending order of their volume in the finished product. Very often, the ingredient that appears at the top of the list is water: aqua (water), because it is the basis of all emulsions (creams) and shower gels, shampoos, etc. The molecules are listed in English and natural products (plant extracts, but also water) are listed in Latin. Thus, with a little knowledge of Latin and English, you can detect the different ingredients, including those criticized, or allergens, which must be indicated at the end of the list.

Microbiota

Microbiota - WE ARE CLEAN - CLEAN BEAUTY

We discovered this term when we started to talk about the intestinal microbiota . On the skin too – as in many organs – there is a microbiota composed of billions of living microorganisms called probiotics (bacteria, viruses, yeasts) that coexist and interact strongly with our cells. However, this discovery is changing the way we think about skin care: "20 years ago, we thought that viruses and bacteria caused diseases. We now know that the health of the skin depends on the balance between these probiotics within the skin microbiota," explains Richard L. Gallo, Chairman of the Dermatology Department at the University of California, San Diego and discoverer of the skin microbiota. The skin microbiota is composed of a thousand varieties. It is their diversity and the balance between populations that determine the good health of the skin . They play a protective role by forming a physical barrier and stimulating skin immunity. When pathogenic bacteria try to settle, these probiotics produce substances to destroy them, sending messages to the cells of the epidermis to amplify the immune response. But when these manage to unbalance the microbiota, the skin shows signs of inflammation: redness, irritation, dryness, which can lead to pathologies such as acne or eczema.

Natural

A natural ingredient is an ingredient obtained exclusively from plants, animals, microorganisms or minerals (and not from chemistry). But the latter can be treated to extract an active ingredient. They are then transformed, physically or chemically, and are then called "of natural origin". The transformation process is not necessarily harmful. For example, maceration, extraction, grinding or fermentation preserve the benefits of the natural ingredient. A formula can therefore both contain natural ingredients, of natural origin and claim it, up to 95% and more as is often the case.

Since 2017, standard 16128 has established these names and defined their framework through a global agreement, defining what is a natural ingredient and an organic ingredient , a derivative of natural and an organic derivative, and how to calculate the concentration of these ingredients in finished products.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide - WE ARE CLEAN - CLEAN BEAUTY

This B vitamin is known by different names: vitamin B3, vitamin PP or nicotinamide. Like other vitamins used in cosmetics, it interacts with many mechanisms of the skin. On the surface, it strengthens the barrier function by stimulating the production of ceramides, the lipids that form the cement between the cells of the horny layer, thus protecting against dehydration and the penetration of irritants. It also regulates cell renewal and improves the texture of the skin, acting in particular on the tightening of pores and the regulation of sebum (it is also found in many products treating acne). It promotes the antioxidant action of the skin and reduces the harmful effects of blue light. It is also well known for its powerful anti-hyperpigmentation properties by inhibiting the transfer of melanin, and anti-inflammatory. Finally, it stimulates collagen and protects it from its destructive agents and thus has an anti-aging action. Note: purist chemists say niacinamide (because it is an amide), most popularizers say niacinamide because it is a vitamin.

Oxidation / Free radicals

Oxidative stress due to free radicals causes cells to oxidize, like a rust phenomenon. Normally, the body naturally produces "antidotes" against these free radicals (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione), but the balance can tip over when excessive free radicals are formed due to high exposure to UV rays or pollution , but also to fatigue, stress or smoking. Free radicals then attack proteins, DNA and cell membranes. Result: wrinkles and premature aging. Hence the need to add antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, polyphenols to care products, etc.

PAO (period after opening)

It is simply the shelf life of a product after it has been opened, as opposed to the expiry date. It is indicated on the product by a jar with a half-open lid on which a number is written, for example "12M" for 12 months.

Skin

The skin is the largest organ of the body – about 2m2. It consists of three layers – the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The most superficial layer of the epidermis – in contact with the outside – is the stratum corneum.

  • The stratum corneum is composed of dead cells called corneocytes, which are keratinocytes (epidermal cells) that have lost their nucleus, which constitute a sort of brick wall, sealed by intercellular cement (ceramides) and protected on the surface by the hydrolipidic film which forms, with the microbiota, the protective skin barrier. If the cement is not of good quality or if the hydrolipidic film has holes, the water evaporates and the skin becomes dehydrated.
  • The epidermis is made up of keratinocytes, which gradually migrate from the base of the epidermis towards the horny layer, undergoing modifications, melanocytes responsible for the production of melanin, and Langerhans cells, immune cells.
  • The dermis is a connective tissue that supports the epidermis, with which it is in constant communication through the dermo-epidermal junction. The superficial dermis is rich in nerve endings and in permanent symbiosis with the epidermis. The deep dermis is a dense connective tissue where cells called fibroblasts are intertwined, synthesizing the fibers that surround it – collagen and elastin – which provide density and elasticity to the skin – and the extracellular matrix, a sort of gel that gives the skin its plumpness and is essentially composed of hyaluronic acid.
  • The hypodermis is located under the dermis. It is crossed by the vessels and nerves arriving in the dermis and houses the adipocytes, where fat is stored.

At the level of the dermis and the hypodermis also originate the sweat glands which produce sweat, the sebaceous glands which secrete sebum, and the hair follicles of the hairs and hair, coupled with the sebaceous glands.

Peptides

These anti-aging active ingredients are chains of amino acids. Since the latter are the constituents of proteins, they are naturally present in the skin and therefore in perfect affinity with it. They can be called dipeptides, tripeptides... up to hexapeptides or polypeptides, depending on the number of amino acids that constitute them. They act as messengers that act by mimicry and attach themselves to certain cell receptors. They therefore coordinate many biological processes, without providing external active ingredients to the skin but by encouraging it to regenerate itself. Some boost cell renewal, others the fibroblast, leading to the synthesis of collagen and elastin and reducing degradation phenomena. Still others are moisturizing or soothing, or even anti-glycation. Argireline, a hexapeptide, reduces expression lines by blocking the acetylcholine responsible for their formation. Proline boosts collagen synthesis...In short, the possible effects are multiple since almost every peptide corresponds to a specific action.

Proteins

Proteins are chains of amino acids that are much larger and more complex than peptides. Skin is made up of 27.5% of them. Its structural proteins are keratin, collagen and elastin – also found in claws, bones, tendons and ligaments. Proteins are also the main component of cells, representing more than 50% of their dry weight.

Retinol

Retinol (derived from Vitamin A) is the anti-aging active ingredient of choice for dermatologists, which they have been prescribing for over 40 years in its medical form, retinoic acid (vitamin A acid). Like vitamins C, B3, or B5 also used in cosmetics, retinol is versatile and acts on many factors. It is mainly known as an anti-wrinkle agent, but it also acts on spots and skin quality, because it has effects in all layers of the skin. On the surface, it has an exfoliating effect that smoothes skin texture, promotes radiance and unclogs pores. It stimulates cell renewal and, in reaction, causes a slight thickening of the epidermis. It also acts on key cells of the skin's immune defense, and regulates the production of sebum and melanin. In the dermis, it boosts the production of collagen and elastin, increases the level of hyaluronic acid and reduces the destruction of existing collagen. Finally, it has a strong antioxidant role, which explains why it is more effective on damage caused by sun exposure than on strictly chronological aging. It is therefore in our interest to adopt it whether we have late acne, a few wrinkles or spots, oily, thick, irregular or sagging skin, or just need a good boost of radiance. The downside is that it is very unstable in its pure formula and delicate to formulate, and can be irritating at the effective concentration. It can be formulated in its pure form, coupled with soothing and moisturizing active ingredients, or in a derived form that is easier to control (retinyl palmitate, acetate or linoleate, retinaldehyde). It is used in the evening to boost nighttime repair, and because it does not mix well with the sun. Hypersensitive and intolerant skin avoids it.

Sulfates

Sulfates - WE ARE CLEAN - CLEAN BEAUTY

Sulfates (sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate) are the main washing agents in most shampoos, shower gels and all detergents. They wash – very effectively – and form the airy and abundant foam that consumers have become accustomed to. The downside: to wash, that is to say to remove grease, styling products, pollution, etc., you necessarily have to strip a little. They are therefore criticized for being irritating and drying for the skin and scalp, for “stripping” the hair and fading the coloring. In most formulas, sulfates are therefore combined with other gentler washing agents and moisturizing, soothing active ingredients that compensate for their effects (aloe vera, glycerin, etc.). The fact remains that colored and curly hair, very delicate skin and scalps sometimes have difficulty tolerating them.

"Laureth" sulfate is also criticized for its production method, which involves ethylation, which is polluting and dangerous for the handler, which explains why it is prohibited by the organic charter. And in December 2021, the Cosmebio organization highlighted the problem raised by sulfur chemistry (sulfates are composed of it), which causes acid rain and atmospheric aerosols. Cosmebio therefore recommends that its members no longer use sulfated emulsifiers from October 2022 and sulfated surfactants by October 2024.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C – or L-ascorbic acid – is essential for metabolism. Known for its anti-fatigue action, it also has many benefits for the skin. Above all, it is one of the most powerful antioxidants, both directly and indirectly since it reactivates the effects of vitamin E, another super antioxidant. It is also a vascular protector. It boosts both the cells of the epidermis (keratinocytes) and those of the dermis (fibroblasts). In the dermis, it stimulates the production of collagens I and III and prevents metalloproteinases from destroying collagen. Thus, it modifies the skin's relief by reducing wrinkles and oxidized melanins on the surface. Finally, it inhibits tyrosinase and thus slows the production of melanin responsible for pigment spots. It therefore has an action on both the radiance of the skin and the skin relief (from one week of use), wrinkles (after two months), spots (after three months). Very difficult to stabilize, it can be found pure in the form of cures to be used by mixing the vitamin C powder with a solution and to be used immediately, or stabilized - in particular by sugars.

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