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The dictionary of skintellectuals from A to L

Le dico des skintellectuelle- CLEAN BEAUTY - WE ARE CLEAN

The skintellectuals movement emerged in France, when the first controversies over certain molecules (parabens from 2005) emerged, with the creation of specialized blogs first, and now podcasts and Instagram accounts (even TikTok). These beauty enthusiasts, who decipher Inci formulas, now have a term to define them, once again from the Anglo-Saxon world where the trend is much more recent (2-3 years): skintellectuals ( or skintellectuels) , a contraction of the words skin and “ intellectuals ”. These skincare addicts, who now have direct access to brands and consumers thanks to social networks, are specialists in skin and its various issues, in formulating art and its active ingredients. Skintellectuals have taken control of knowledge, and ultimately of their consumption and that of their followers. Here is their lexicon from A to L:

Fruit acids (AHA, BHA, PHA)

Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids are natural sugar acids, which can be extracted from fruits (glycolic acid in sugar cane, malic acid in apples and grapes, citric acid in oranges and lemons, malic acid in apples, etc.). However, those used in cosmetics are mostly of synthetic origin. They are the preferred active ingredients for oily, acne-prone and sagging skin. Indeed, the main property of AHAs is that they are keratolytic: they have a peeling effect, because they manage to break the bonds between the cells of the horny layer. Thus, the dead cells are detached and we obtain a brighter complexion and softer skin. They also have the power to absorb water and thus act on its hydration and elasticity. At higher doses (between 8 and 15%) and low pH, they promote the synthesis of collagen and glucosaminoglycans, the constituents of the dermis matrix. On the other hand, as they thin the skin, they make it more vulnerable and can cause tingling, irritation and photosensitization to UV rays. As a result, some skins prefer BHA (salicylic acid) or PHA, more complex acids (poly-hydroxy acids), such as glucuronolactone, which are larger and better tolerated.

Hyaluronic acid

This complex sugar, a natural component of the epidermis and especially of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, contains 50% of the hyaluronic acid in the entire body. It is produced and destroyed continuously, with a lifespan of 24 hours, but its quantity decreases with age (50% of the stock is exhausted by age 50).
Like a sponge, it retains up to 1000 times its weight in water. It is biomimetic, that is to say recognized by the body. Originally extracted from cockscombs, it is now produced by biotechnology from wheat or beetroot. In aesthetic medicine, it is injected as a moisturizer and stimulant when it is fluid, or as a filler and volumizer when it is thicker. In cosmetics, it is used in different forms of molecular weights – or sizes. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid fixes water and smoothes the skin on the surface. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, or fragmented, infiltrates further and stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis. The cells of the epidermis will then order those of the dermis to produce more collagen. It thus re-inflates the dermis mattress, plumps the skin and pushes back wrinkles from the inside.

Organic

Organic cosmetics are defined by charters and labels (Cosmos, Natrue, Nature & Progrès in France). To benefit from one of these labels, the composition of the product must meet specifications that indicate the proportion of organic, natural or naturally-derived ingredients (which differ depending on the labels) and prohibit a certain number of chemical and controversial ingredients. The products are controlled by accredited organizations, the best known being Ecocert, to verify their compliance. However, 100% organic does not exist in cosmetics, except for pure shea butter or organic vegetable oil. But the more water a formula contains (not certifiable organic), the lower its organic percentage. Since a cosmetic product is not a vegetable, its footprint goes beyond the fact that its formula contains a lot of organic ingredients. This is why organic labels go beyond the certified ingredient, and impose a strict charter of manufacturing, packaging and ecological footprints.

Clean beauty

The term clean beauty is a virtuous cosmetic. It is not limited to a formula "cleaned" of any controversial ingredient, but brings together all the aspects that come into play in the design and manufacture of the product, including packaging, but also the entire value chain, ethics and transparency. Each aspect of its life cycle is important: the sourcing of ingredients, the development of the formula, manufacturing with the most sustainable development possible, the eco-design of the packaging and its degradability, respect for the men and women employed in the manufacture of the product, the safety of the formula and non-ecotoxicity.

DIY, for Do It yourself

DIY - CLEAN BEAUTY - WE ARE CLEAN

Many people have started making "homemade" cosmetics, most of them to better control the ingredients they put on their skin, some convinced that it costs them less, others because they like the fun and rewarding side of this creative activity. And the offer has become plentiful, from Aroma-Zone, a major supplier of ingredients - but also of courses and recipes (more than 3,000 on their site) - to the many recipe books, pre-dosed kits, and even more recently machines (at Rowenta in particular). The fact remains that DIY cannot be improvised. It is better to start with a scrub or a quick mask that you apply immediately, then read books or watch tutorials, or even take a few courses to improve before embarking on an anti-aging cream. Indeed, DIY cosmetics require even more hygiene and attention to detail than baking. Because a product made without perfect hygiene or poorly stored can become a nest of bacteria, just as a poorly dosed treatment can prove dangerous.

Water/hydration

We do not hydrate our skin by giving it water. Shower water does not penetrate and the water we drink reaches the skin after having served all the vital organs. Water rises from the dermis, the deep layer of the skin, which contains 70% of it, to the epidermis, which is composed of 60% of it, then the superficial layer or stratum corneum, where it is only present at 13%. However, it is at this level that hydration has the greatest impact on the appearance of the skin. The stratum corneum is a kind of brick wall (the corneocytes) where water is trapped by sponges, called natural moisturizing factors, of which urea is one of the essential components. This wall is sealed by intercellular cement (ceramides) and protected on the surface by the hydrolipidic film. Water perspires as it rises in the skin, this is the insensible loss of water. If the cement is not of good quality or if the hydrolipidic film has holes, the water rate then drops to 10 or even 7% and the skin tightens and loses its radiance . This can also be because the water cannot rise from the deeper layers. However, dehydrated skin is not only uncomfortable, it is also skin that ages faster. The ingredients used in hydration are glycerin which reduces water loss, hyaluronic acid which captures water, urea which fixes water and sugars (rhamnose, trehalose) which reinforce the natural hydration factors.

Emulsion

An emulsion is a heterogeneous mixture of two normally immiscible liquids – in cosmetics, an aqueous phase and an oily phase – which, thanks to specific operations (agitation, addition of active ingredients called emulsifiers or surfactants to better bind the emulsion), will adopt an apparently homogeneous appearance, which is in fact a dispersion of one phase in the other in the form of microdroplets. The aqueous phase is composed of water and water-soluble ingredients, the oily phase of oils and oil-soluble active ingredients. The majority of cosmetics are made up of Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions where the oily phase is dispersed in droplets in the aqueous phase. This emulsion provides a fine, non-greasy texture with good skin absorption. Some creams are of the water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion type, which provides immediate comfort to the driest skin by providing them with significant nutrition that is immediately accessible. Some emulsifiers make it possible to obtain biomimetic emulsions organized into lamellar structures, like skin membranes.

Formula

Cosmetic formulation reveals complex know-how. Originally, it was a question of combining in the best possible way ingredients that were often difficult to reconcile to meet a physiological need. Knowledge of the skin, its reactions to chemical aggressions, light, oxidation, makes it possible to define the active ingredients and everything that surrounds them (emulsifiers, preservatives, perfume, etc.), which must be included in its composition.
Formulation involves several scientific disciplines: physics, physical chemistry, chemistry, biology, but also economic and social sciences, human sciences, etc. Because it is no longer enough for the formula to meet certain prerequisites: safety, security, stability and efficacy (which require numerous tests during and after formulation). It must also be pleasant – sensory – in order to “make you want it” and meet the strict European regulatory requirements. But in the context of so-called clean cosmetics, formulation becomes even more demanding, including the meticulous choice of ingredients that must be as clean as possible, traceable, socially and ecologically acceptable, and provide for green manufacturing and a reduced footprint. This explains the 12 to 18 months needed to create a skincare formula.

Glycation

It is a reaction between the collagen and elastin fibers of the dermis and sugar. Glucose, which circulates freely in the blood, will in a way "caramelize" these proteins, making them harder and less operational. Result: the wrinkle deepens.

Essential oils

Essential oils - CLEAN BEAUTY - WE ARE CLEAN

These plant extracts are obtained by extraction (steam distillation or CO2) or cold pressing for citrus fruits. Already known in -3500, essential oils were used empirically for their benefits on health and the mind . Technological advances have made it possible to better understand their action thanks to the understanding of the chemotype (the major biochemical constituents: pinene, limonene, thymol, etc.). There are big differences for the same plant, depending on the species, genus and place where it grew. Today, we can even scientifically objectify, through clinical studies or even observation of the genes expressed after their use, their precise action and their effectiveness. Their power of action is due to the fact that essential oils pass into the blood and reach their target through the bloodstream. In cosmetics, we use more than ten essential oils for their soothing, antibacterial, antifungal, astringent, anti-aging, regenerating effects... As an essential oil can contain up to 250 molecules, it often has multiple virtues and can act on both wrinkles and skin conditions.

In olfactotherapy or aromacology, aromas pass through the nasal cavity which sends an electrical and chemical influx to the olfactory bulb, itself directly linked to the limbic system of the brain, the place of emotions and memory. The limbic system then orders the production of immune substances and hormones. It is now scientifically proven that we can rebalance our emotional sphere by breathing daily the essential oils best suited to our needs.
Please note: pure essential oils should not come into contact with the skin. Some are dermocaustic and therefore irritating, such as savory, cinnamon, thyme with thymol or cloves.

Inflammation

There are two types of skin inflammation, visible and invisible. Thus, acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis are skin dermatoses with an inflammatory variant. But there is also a dull and not immediately visible inflammation, called inflamm'aging (contraction of the terms "inflammation" and "aging"), described in the 2000s by Professor Franceschi. This micro-inflammatory state, imperceptible and chronic, "low noise", is due to a multitude of aggressions, linked to our lifestyle and our environment, that the body is unable to manage. The latter, overwhelmed, then develops continuous inflammatory micro-reactions, with the regular stimulation of destructive enzymes that nibble away at our healthy tissues. In addition, this inflammatory reaction increases the production of free radicals, which amplifies the phenomenon. Inflamm'aging and oxidative stress are mechanisms that support each other. The manifestations on the skin are numerous: lack of radiance and skin reactivity, sagging, wrinkles, couperose, pigment spots... And therefore acceleration of aging.

Lipids

Obviously, we think of lipids in the skin as triglycerides, which are stored in the adipocytes of the hypodermis to form cellulite and orange peel skin. But lipids are also essential fatty acids, present in many places in the skin. Lipids are one of the constituents of cell membranes. In the stratum corneum, they make up the intercellular cement (ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids) that forms the skin barrier. The sebaceous glands, present at the base of the hairs, also produce different types of lipids that enter into the composition of sebum and that of the hydrolipidic film that covers the skin and protects it from dehydration and external aggressions. Lipids, which make up about 2% of skin tissue, are therefore essential to its balance. In the case of dry skin, therefore lacking in lipids, omega-3 or 6 should be favored, both through diet (oily fish, rapeseed, olive and walnut oils) and through cosmetics rich in borage, evening primrose and argan oils, squalane and ceramides.

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